

After reading your instructions I think I will either a) use lattice caps on posts to create "channels" for the wire panels to slide into and then use a top runner board (2x4 or 2圆 as you have shown) and then staple the wire into the underside to improve stability, or b) utilize all of the 1x3s from the old fence I'm removing to create the frame like you mention above. I had been thinking to build frames for 8' panels and then affix those to 4x4 posts. There are plenty of images of these fences but few tutorials, which is why I was excited to find yours suggestions. Thanks for the reply-& spot on! I saw lots of these fences around PDX but they're not common-actually they're not even known-where I am now (Wisconsin) so just trying to figure out some of design and material pitfalls before I dive in.
#Wild hog wire fence panels how to
See picture in this step to see how to maximize the number of panels to be cut from a sheet. These are called everything from hog panels, to sheep panels, to utility panels - the important thing is to get 4" squares to meet code. I purchase panels that are 4' x 16' with 4" squares.

This can be tricky to find, try a farm supply store.

If you can't find pre-made lattice caps, try buying 1x3 cedar and routing a channel down the middle Rule of thumb is 5 x 8' lattice caps will make 3 x complete fence panels (3 caps for the horizontal frames, 2 caps for vertical frame pieces).
#Wild hog wire fence panels code
I won't go into construction techniques to meet building code, especially for things like fastening the railing posts to the joists (hint - use Simpson Strong Tie DTT2Z Deck Post Connectors) - this design does conform to general code requirements:Īs with any deck project, expect that your deck is not level, and make provisions when you construct the rail. The wider top rail allows you to hide LED light strips - see photo at the end for effect!.The design can be built without an specialized tools like a router or dado blade to frame the mesh, and doesn't require you to drill a million holes to hold the mesh.Pre-made lattice caps makes for a more discreet frame to hold the mesh.The double top rail minimizes any sag when spanning distances over four feet, just be realistic and conform to any building codes.I wanted to share my design for a few reasons: See this design as an example on Instructables - I love it!

There are lots of designs of exterior fencing using welded, galvanized wire panels - aka "hog" panels or "sheep" panels - I like them because they hold up well to the elements, are cost effective, relatively easy to use, and have a clean look with excellent visibility.
